Glossary Of Terms

When carrying out your research into the world of diamond jewellery and watches, it might be useful for you to familiarise yourself with some key phrases which are sure to come in useful for you.

ALTIMETER - A function that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric pressure, most commonly found in pilots watches.

ANALOGUE - A term used to denote a watch dial with hands rather than a digital display.

AUTOMATIC WATCH - An automatic movement watch needs no battery, as the mechanism winds itself by the the movement of the watch bearer.

BAGUETTE CUT DIAMONDS - Baguette cut diamonds are often used as sidestones in diamond engagement rings, and are used extensively in diamond full eternity rings. They are rectangular in shape, and step-cut, very similar to emerald cut diamonds.

BATTERY EOL INDICATOR - Refers to Battery End of Life Indicator. This function warns the wearer of the watch of impending battery failure in a quartz watch by means of the second hand jumping in two or sometimes four-second intervals.

BEZEL - The rim that covers the dial (face) of the watch and that retains the crystal.

BLEMISHES - This term is used when the diamond has scratches or marks on the external area of the stone.

BRILLIANCE - The term 'brilliance' refers to the liveliness or sparkle in a diamond when light is reflected from the surface and from the total internal reflection of light.

BRUSHED STEEL - Stainless steel with a matt "brushed" effect finish. Most often found on the cases of bezels of watches.

BUCKLE - The name for the traditional Loop & Pin buckle on a watch. This is also commonly referred to as the clasp.

CALIBRE - This refers to the size of a watch movement, but also describes the model, style or shape of a watch movement.

CARAT - Refers to the measure of weight of a diamond (not the physical size). For more information on this, visit our Buying Diamond Jewellery page.

CARBON SPOTS - These are included crystals that have a dark appearance, rather than a transparent or white appearance, when viewed under a microscope. On the international grading system, these carbon spots would be portrayed in the clarity grading.

CASE - The protective covering surrounding a watch movement. Primarily, it is made from base metals such as stainless steel or gold, for example. It typically includes a bezel, back and crystal.

CHRONOGRAPH - A watch movement that can be started and stopped to measure short time intervals and return to zero. A stopwatch does not keep the time of day.

CHRONOMETER - A watch that is a certified chronometer has passed vigorous tests that demand the watch stands up to the high standard of precision of COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Control). The mechanical movement must be close to perfection.

CLARITY - Most diamonds, with the exception of 'flawless' diamonds, have natural imperfections, commonly referred to as "nature's fingerprints". Inclusions can be white, black, colourless or even red or green. Most inclusions are undetectable by the human eye and can only be seen with 10x magnification. The key to buying a good stone is minimising the amount of visible inclusions in the stone. For more information on this, visit our Buying Diamond Jewellery page.

CLOUDS - This is a grouping of a number of extremely tiny inclusions that are too small to be distinguishable from one another, even under magnification. The result of this is that, under a microscope, this grouping often looks like a soft transparent cloud inside the diamond.

COLOUR - Nowadays, diamonds are graded on an international grading system established some 70 years ago by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America). The scale ranges from D (rare white) to Z (yellow). For more informaton on this, visit our Buying Diamond Jewellery page.

COSC - The Swiss Official Chronometer Control ("Control Officile Suisse de Chronometers"), relating to Swiss watch manufacture.

CROWN - This is simply the winding button on a watch.

CRYSTAL - The "glass" of a watch, and is typically a mineral or synthetic covering over the watch dial.

CULET - Pronounced 'Queue-let', this is the bottom point of the diamond. Occasionally the culet of the diamond is a surface instead of a point. For more information on this, visit our Buying Diamond Jewellery page.

CUT - This refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished, polished diamond. Based on scientific formulae, a well cut diamond will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the stone. This results in a display of fire and brilliance. The better cut the stone, the better the sparkle, or 'brilliance'.

DEPTH - The height of a diamond from the culet (base) to the table (top). The depth is always measured in millimetres.

DIAL - The dial is also referred to as the face of a watch, and is therefore the visible area of the watch that tells the time. It is usually marked with numbers of indices to which the hands point in order for the wearer to tell the correct time. In luxury watches, the hour markers and any surface details are hand applied as separate elements. A technique known as Guilooche can be applied to the dial in which a pattern is etched into the dial, then enamel is applied to the dial in several stages.

DIAMOND - Diamond is, in reality, crystallised carbon. Diamonds are mined in their rough form and then cut and polished to reveal their brilliance by skilled craftsmen. Diamonds are so hard that a diamond can only be scratched by another diamond.

DIAMOND BRACELETS - Often simple in design, a diamond bracelet makes a stunning addition to any outfit. Many other designs are also readily available, meaning that diamond bracelets make a perfect gift for that special occasion.

DIAMOND CUTTING - This is the method by which a rough diamond is shaped into a finished, faceted stone by a skilled craftsman.

DIAMOND EARRINGS - A piece of diamond jewellery which is loved by all women, and so provide the ideal gift idea. Today, diamond earrings come in all shapes and forms, from traditional styles through to more modern contemporary designs. However, rest assured that it is usually the single stone stud diamond earrings , which ooze simplicity, which get the best response from the lucky recipient.

DIAMOND ENGAGEMENT RINGS - Diamond engagement rings have been used for hundreds of years to demonstrate the love between two people and to signify an everlasting bond. Traditionally, diamond engagement rings have been simple in design, with a single diamond in either a 4 claw or rub over style setting. However, diamond engagement rings set with a multitude of diamonds are now more prevalent, which provide something a little different to the norm.

DIAMOND ETERNITY RINGS - Diamond eternity rings are a symbol of love between partners. Diamond eternity rings use an array of different shaped diamonds, but the most used shapes are brilliant round diamonds or princess cut diamonds. Diamond eternity rings are also prevalent in channel settings and claw settings, and which one of these to go for is purely down to individual choice. Generally, however, the main decision to make when purchasing a diamond eternity ring is which metal to have the ring in, and whether to have a half or full diamond eternity ring.

DIAMOND JEWELLERY - The term diamond jewellery is an all encompassing one. It refers to diamond engagement rings, diamond eternity rings, diamond rings, diamond earrings, diamond pendants, diamond necklaces, diamond cufflinks, diamond watches and diamond bracelets, all of which are a valuable addition to any girl's diamond jewellery collection.

DIAMOND NECKLACES - If you are searching for a gift which is simple, stylish and awe-inspiring, which you KNOW she will love, then a diamond necklace is ideal! This is because she knows that it is a piece of diamond jewellery that she can wear all the time, whether it be a fashion accessory to a casual outfit, or an eye-catching piece to wear with her cocktail dress on that next special occasion.

DIAMOND PENDANTS - Diamond pendants look truly delightful on any occasion. What makes these diamond pendants so perfect for a gift idea is their simplicity but overall effect. You can be sure that a diamond pendant, presented in beautiful packaging, will be gratefully received by your loved one.

DIAMOND RINGS - Diamond rings have been worn through the ages as symboles of love and power. Whether it be a diamond engagement ring, diamond trilogy ring, diamond dress ring, diamond wedding ring or diamond eternity ring, there is an abundance of styles to choose from!

DISPERSION - When light enters a diamond it reflects off the facets and the angles cut into the stone. This distribution of light is known as dispersion, or the display of the spectral colours.

DIVERS WATCH - A watch with a specially constructed case to withstand the entry of water. It often has a screwed down crown to prevent it from being pulled into a setting position whilst under water. Usually equipped with a rotating bezel to enable a diver to ascertain the minutes of air supply left in his tank. To be classified as a divers watch, the watch must be water resistant to at least 200 metres (660 feet).

EMERALD CUT DIAMONDS - Emerald cut diamonds have step-cut facets unlike other cuts of diamonds, and so are not necessarily cut for their brilliance, but more an understated look. Emerald cut diamonds are growing in popularity all the time, and it is important to ensure a good clarity grade as inclusions in emerald cut diamonds can be more visible than in any other shapes of diamonds.

ENGAGEMENT RINGS - Engagement rings are not only an emotional purchase, but are also a big financial investment. It is a big decision in the first place to "pop the question", and almost as big a decision to splash out on a diamond! Whether she prefers a single stone diamond engagement ring or diamond engagement ring containing several diamonds, we are here and ready to help!

EYE CLEAN - This is a term used in the jewellery industry to describe a diamond with no blemishes or inclusions that can be seen with the naked eye.

FACETS - These are the tiny surfaces polished onto a rough diamond that gives a finished diamond its shape. The way light interacts with these facets affects a diamond's brilliance and sparkle.

FANCY SHAPES - Any diamond other than brilliant round eg Marquise, Princess (square), Emerald (rectangular), Oval, Heart, Pear etc.

FEATHER - A feather is a type of inclusion or flaw within the diamond which is recognised in the diamond's clarity grading.

FINISH - The word finish is used to describe the exterior of the diamond. The finish is also referred to as the 'polish'.

FIRE - Often a term used instead of 'brilliance' or 'dispersion'. It is the variety and intensity of colours seen when light is reflected from within the diamond.

FLORESCENCE - When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond may exhibit a more white, yellow or blue tint, which may imply that the diamond has a property called "Florescence". The untrained eye can rarely see the effects of florescence. Diamond grading reports state whether a diamond has florescent properties. Florescence is not considered a grading factor, only a characteristic of that particular diamond.

FLYBACK - An additional hand on a chronograph watch which moves with the second hand but which can be stopped independently to measure an interval which can then "fly back" to catch up with the other hand. This is useful for capturing lap times without losing the ability to capture the finish time.

FUNCTION - This is the term used to describe the different tasks each time related component performs. For example, the date "function" is the date task the watch performs.

GIRDLE - This is the outer edge, or outline, of the diamond's shape. The girdle itself is not graded, but rather it is described by its appearance. The descriptions of girdle thickness range as follows: extremely thin; thin; medium; slightly thick; thick; extremely thick. Whilst it is less desirable for a round diamond to display an extremely thin or extremely thick girdle, such girdle widths are more common and acceptable in fancy shapes.

GMT - Greenwich Mean Time, used as universal standard time for watches.

GUILLOCHE - A method of engraving a watch with a pattern in continuous decoration by an engine-turned lathe and then covered with translucent enamel so that the engraving can be seen through the enamel.

HEART CUT DIAMONDS - Diamonds of this shape are the ultimate symbol of love, although are quite rare to find.

HELIUM ESCAPE VALVE - Before re-suracing from diving at great depths in a pressured enclosure such as a diving bell, for example, toxic gases that have been formed in the enclosure are removed and helium is mixed into the air. The helium molecules are much smaller than air and can seep into the internals of the watch. When the pressurised enclosure surfaces and is depressurised, any helium that is built up inside the case can cause the crystal on the watch to pop out of the case due to the internal pressure that has built up. This can be avoided by opening the Helium Escape Valve on the watch whilst resurfacing.

INCLUSION - A clarity characteristic found within a diamond, also known as 'nature's birthmark'. All diamonds have inclusions, except for internally flawless stones. Obviously the less inclusions in the diamond, the better.

LIMITED EDITION WATCH - A watch manufactured in a specific amount often individually numbered and available in limited quantities worldwide. Limited editions are available from most fine watch manufacturers and often come with special packaging.

MARQUISE CUT DIAMONDS - Marquise cut diamonds are elongated with pointed tips at each end. Legend has it that this cut of diamond was originated by Louis XVI of France.

MICRO SECOND - A millionth of a second.

MOON PHASE - A feature on a watch which indicates the phases of the moon. A regular rotation of the moon is once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. Once set, the moon phase indicator accurately displays the phase of the moon.

MOTHER OF PEARL - Mother of Pearl is a hard, inner layer of certain shells including abalone, pearl oyster and mussel. It is composed chiefly of calcium carbonate deposited in thin, overlapping layers. The iridescent play of colours for which it is known is caused by the interference of reflected light waves. In both Eastern and Western cultures, Mother of Pearl has a long history of use in decorative finishes and inlays. Recovered from sea shells, treated with care and built in watches - giving an everlasting beauty.

MOVEMENT - The works of a mechanical watch without the case or dial (Quartz watches have 'modules').

OVAL CUT DIAMONDS - Oval cut diamonds provide something a little different to their round diamond cousins.

PAVE - Pronounced 'par-vay', this is a style of jewellery setting in which numerous small diamonds are mounted close together to create a glistening diamond 'crust' that covers the whole piece of jewellery and effectively hides the metal under it. This style of diamond setting is most commonly found on diamond pendants and on the shoulders of diamond engagement rings. This is growing in popularity all the time.

PAVILION - This is the bottom portion of the stone, under the girdle, measuring to the culet.

PEAR CUT DIAMONDS - Often also called "teardrops", pear cut diamonds are perfect for solitaire diamond pendants and diamond engagement rings.

PERPETUAL CALENDAR - A calendar mechanism on a watch that automatically corrects long and short months and self adjusts for leap years (ie it will count 29 days in February every fourth year).

POLISH - This indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping and faceting the rough stone into a finished and polished diamond.

PRINCESS CUT DIAMONDS - Square in shape, princess cut diamonds are the second most popular cut of diamonds, behind round brilliant cut diamonds. They offer as much sparkle as their round diamond cousins.

PROPORTION - The proportions of a diamond are very important, so that the maximum amount of light can be reflected off and out of a stone. The term 'proportion' refers to the relationship between the angles of the facets of the crown and pavilion.

ROUND BRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS - Round brilliant cut diamonds are cut according to precise mathematical theories developed by the scientist Marcel Tolkowsky. Light refracts internally within these diamonds, providing a scintillating finish. Around 75% of diamonds sold today are round brilliant cut diamonds.

SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL - Scratch resistant glass with a hardness of 9. Mineral glass has a hardness of 5.

SHOCK RESISTANT - A watch should not stop, or its daily rate be affected by more than 60 seconds, when dropped 3 feet onto a hardwood surface, to be called "shock resistant".

SYMMETRY - A diamond's symmetry is the arrangement of the facets and finished angles, created by the diamond cutter when cutting the diamond from its rough to polished form. Excellent symmetry of a well cut and well proportioned diamond can have a great effect on the diamond's sparkle, or 'brilliance'.

TABLE FACET - This is the largest facet of a diamond. It is located on the top of the diamond.

TABLE SPREAD - This is the term used to describe the width of the table facet, often expressed as a percentage of the total width of the diamond.

TACHYMETRE - Often used in the motor industry to measure the speed of a car over a specific distance. Functions via a scale on the bezel of a chronograph watch. Average speeds or hourly production rates can be calculated over a period of observation of less than 60 seconds.

TITANIUM - A hard metal which has a silver-grey appearance similar to stainless steel but which is 30% stronger and nearly 50% lighter than steel. It has a high resistance to salt water corrosion so it is particularly useful for divers watches. Titanium is also hypoallergenic.

TRILLIANT CUT DIAMONDS - Often used a sidestones in diamond engagement rings, trilliant cut diamonds are triangular in shape.

WATER RESISTANT - To be called "water resistant", a watch must not admit moisture if immersed for 5 minutes at a depth of 34 feet (15lbs per square inch), and for at least 5 minutes at a depth of 113 feet (50lbs per square inch). The following information shows what you can expect from a water resistant watch;
- Water Resistant (no additional info or depth rating) - This watch will withstand light splashing or rain. It should not be worn wilst showering or swimming.
- Water Resistant 50m - This watch will withstand light swimming in shallow waters or showering. Do not expose to extreme warm water.
- Water Resistant to 100m - This watch is suitable for recreational swimming or snorkelling.
- Water Resistant to 200m - This watch is suitable for snorkelling, swimming and light diving.
- Water Resistant to 500m+ - This watch was designed for professional divers and is good for extreme diving and suitable for most watersports. The watch will probably be fitted with an over-pressure valve that releases the helium that has seeped into the watch when surfacing, so as to avoid the watch case rupturing.